MONICA McCABE

Book Shelf

Book Notes

MONICA McCABE

Home

Travel Notes

Book Shelf

Book Notes

ICELAND - GEOTHERMAL ADVENTURES

Jul 1, 2026

As a nature lover, I expected Iceland to impress me, who wouldn’t? It’s the Land of Fire and Ice, purely elemental and a place of magic.

What I did not expect was having it rearrange my sense of scale.

This is a huge volcanic island, and the sheer magnitude of its wild terrain is breathtaking. The interior is known as the Highlands, and it’s vast, untamed, and uninhabitable. It will humble you should you enter unprepared, a formidable challenge even for experienced outdoor enthusiasts. And while Hubby and I love the solitary mood of connecting with nature, Iceland’s interior is too much for us to tackle.

That’s not to say we didn’t stretch our boundaries, we absolutely did.

HENGILL VOLCANO

Day one in Iceland started with a helicopter flight from Reykjavik to the hidden-away geothermal area of Hengill volcano, a table mountain that’s home to rugged valleys, bubbling mud pots, steaming hot springs, and a bodacious sulfur aroma. It’s a 2,000-year-old sleeping giant that hasn’t actually gone to sleep. It invites exploration but demands respect for the danger.

Seriously, amazing isn’t a big enough word. Because Iceland doesn’t just sit there looking gorgeous. This land breathes, it steams, constantly realigns, and reminds us that our planet is not finished becoming itself. It has an otherworldly environment, shaped by continuous underground dynamics that love to put on a show.

And our pilot landed us smack on top of this active geothermal energy zone.

The first thing you notice is a surreal kaleidoscope of colors, from the dark ridges of volcanic rock, to velvety moss-draped lava fields, to vibrant mineral stained earth in shades of green, orange, burnt yellows and reds. Then there’s the winds that blow hot vapor and the scent of rotten eggs.

We left the safety of the helicopter and sidestepped pillars of steam, boiling silver-hued rivulets escaping volcanic rock, all while the ground gurgled and burped with the prehistoric hiss of high-pressure earth vents. Or squished alarmingly when stepped upon.

It felt a bit like crawling along the back of a fire-breathing dragon.

This experience is a bit profound. It’s a humbling reminder of earth’s relentless force of nature, and yet, oddly enough, feels somewhat restorative and grounding. You come away with a sense of primal reverence for the power lurking beneath your feet.

Back in the helicopter, we learned that Hengill actually is a vital source of energy for Iceland. Statistics show 90% of all homes and buildings in Iceland use geothermal energy for space heating and hot water. Electricity is 70% hydropower and geothermal provides the rest.

Pretty much the entire country is run on renewable energy. How excellent! Harnessing all that power is not only smart, it’s impressive.

But our brush with primordial volcanos wasn’t done yet.

STORA-GRABROCK VOLCANIC CRATER

The next day we headed west toward Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The day after that we stood at the base of Grabrok Crater, the largest of three craters formed roughly 3,400 years ago. While technically still active, things have been happily dormant for a long spell.

For this expedition we traded the helicopter for hiking boots, because my geologist husband intended to climb up to the rim.

Sending respect to Iceland for the well-maintained boardwalk, with platforms and stairs designed to protect the surrounding area. And make the climb safer for those of us hardy enough to tackle a stairway to the sky. However, they also labeled this as a moderate hike. I beg to differ.

As I stood in the parking area, my gaze followed that winding climb with a resigned sigh. It’s 558 feet from base to rim. That meant 567 wooden steps. Not that I was counting. I googled it after surviving the ascent.

Believe me when I say the trip upward was hardly moderate, more like challenging and I had to take a short break. Okay, maybe two. But once we reached the summit, the spectacular 360-degree panorama of surrounding mountains and moss-covered lava fields made the effort worth every labored step.

Except this hike wasn’t done working us over. We stepped off the nice boardwalk and onto the graveled rim edge loop trail, only to be threatened by heavy winds that seemed determined to send us flying. But no worries, the rocky path had a safety cable about two feet high marking the edge.

Totally reassuring.

Still worth it. I’d do it again, just for the view.

But wait, there’s more! Since we’re talking geothermal, I’d be remiss not to mention Strokkur Geyser.

HAUKADALUR VALLEY GEOTHERMAL AREA

Nestled in the scenic Haukadalur Valley, Strokkur Geyser is located in Iceland’s Golden Circle and a sensational example of geothermal power. This fountain geyser faithfully erupts every 6-10 minutes and shoots blistering hot water 65 feet or more. It’s the highlight of the area’s seismic activity field, along with boiling hot springs, steaming fumaroles, and bubbling mud pots. And let’s not forget the pungent scent of sulfur gases, courtesy of volcanic superheating.

Here’s a fascinating fact to ponder, one provided by that geologist I’m married to. Strokkur geyser is glacial meltwater from Langjokull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. It seeps through porous lava rock and travels underground, only to be superheated and boiled before escaping the geyser throat. From ice to scalding water, all in a day’s work for our planet. How amazing is that?

Watching this rhythm of nature makes for an awe-inspiring experience that everyone should witness at least once in their lives. Want proof? Here’s a quick video…

IN CONCLUSION

Iceland truly is the Land of Fire and Ice. That’s a solid description, but they are just words until you actually experience it. This land will shatter expectations and replace them with a new perception as enormous as the landscapes themselves. Because everywhere you go, the island seems to remind you that our planet is still busy growing, changing, and breathing.

Steam rises. Water boils. Rock cools. And ice waits its turn.

For this first chapter, Iceland showed us FIRE.

Next up: ICE.

See you then!

So, Iceland... ›

Open Menu

Award Winning Author of International Suspense & Adventure